Discover the Bernese Oberland Trail: An Underrated Hut to Hut Gem of the Swiss Alps
“The mountains are calling, and I must go.”
John Muir
If you’re dreaming of a breathtaking hike in the Swiss Alps but find yourself short on time or planning, let me introduce you to the Bernese Overland Trail—an exceptional alternative to the Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB). I chose this trail for its stunning landscapes and the allure of that iconic inn-to-inn hiking experience. You’ll find that it captures the spirit of Switzerland just as much as the TMB.
Why Choose the Bernese Overland Trail?
The Bernese Overland Traverse connects the north-eastern edge of the mountain range at Meiringen with the south-western edge at Leukerbad. This incredible route traverses the canton of Bern, connecting its border with Unterwalden to the border with Valais. Historically, these trails were vital for traders and farmers, long before the advent of motor vehicles.
As you hike, you’ll encounter sections of the trail that are significant tourist attractions, many dating back to the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, when the Alps were an integral part of the “Grand Tour” of Europe. You’ll see evidence of this history in the charming hotels and the vintage mountain railways that add to the trail’s allure.
Visit the Top of Europe
One of the most exhilarating highlights of this trail is the opportunity to visit the Jungfraujoch, famously known as the “Top of Europe.” Here, you’ll discover the majestic Great Aletsch Glacier. To reach this breathtaking destination, you’ll ride to the highest railway station in Europe at 3,454 meters. The views of the two towering peaks—Jungfrau and Mönch—are simply unforgettable. Trust me, this detour is well worth your time!
Embrace the Swiss Alps Experience
You’ll get that Swiss alps hut to hut experience like you’ve always dreamed of! From the cows with their constant bell chiming and the amazing fresh cheese everywhere, I tear up just thinking about how special this place really is. The weather in the Swiss Alps varies significantly throughout the year, influenced by altitude and regional factors. From December to February, be prepared for a range of -10°C to 5°C (14°F to 41°F). Heavy snowfall is common, making it a popular season for skiing and snowboarding. If you are visiting in the summer expect daytime highs ranging from 15°C to 25°C (59°F to 77°F) in the valleys but pack layers since higher elevations will remain cooler.
Last-Minute Adventure Made Easy
As someone who planned this trip on a whim—after my partner returned from a nine-month deployment—I can vouch for the trail’s flexibility. I committed to the trip and booked flights in May for a July adventure, making it a truly last-minute endeavor. Despite this, we were able to organize an incredible nine-day journey with plenty of options for inns along the way. While better planning could have saved us money and provided more lodging options, we didn’t need to stress.
Planning Your Itinerary
My secret weapon? The Hiking Club—a fantastic resource run by two dedicated outdoor enthusiasts. They offer customized packages for offline maps and personalized consultations. I reached out to them during my last-minute planning frenzy and asked for advice on how to maximize our eight to ten days. They enthusiastically recommended the Bernese Overland Trail for its flexibility and stunning beauty. Their expertise was invaluable, and I highly recommend checking them out for your own planning needs: The Hiking Club.
PSA: There is a direct flight from Denver to Zurich Airport (ZRH) and a direct flight to JFK from Geneva Airport, both are great options and just a train ride from the trail.
Our Journey on the Bernese Overland Trail
Here’s a detailed snapshot of our incredible journey:
Day 1: Arrival in Zurich
We flew into Zurich on July 11, landing after a 10-hour flight. From there, we took a beautiful three-hour train ride to Meiringen, famously the home where Sherlock Holmes was filmed. We checked into Das Hotel Sherlock Holmes, which helped us kick off our trip smoothly since we could start our hike right from the hotel door. After grabbing some delicious pizza in town, we realized how tired we were from the overnight flight and crashed early.
Day 2: The Trail Begins (11 miles)
On July 12, we set off on the first day of the trail, hiking 11 miles in just 7 hours. The moment we hit the trail, I knew this was going to be a trip of a lifetime. The charm was everything you’d imagine—from the delightful sound of cowbells to the picturesque Swiss chalets and cheese huts along the way. We ended the day at Berggasthaus First (either private rooms or dormitory beds available), where we enjoyed the stunning views.
Day 3: Grindelwald and Beyond (12.5 miles)
On July 13, we faced a foggy morning that cleared as we descended into Grindelwald. After lunch, we stocked up on electrolytes and snacks at local outdoor shops before embarking on a steep incline towards Berghaus Alpiglen (either private rooms or dormitory beds available). The hike was challenging but rewarding, and we settled in for a restful night.
Day 4: Ascending to Jungfraujoch
Waking up on July 14 in our Alpine inn, we enjoyed breathtaking views overlooking Grindelwald. We began gaining elevation towards Jungfraujoch, where we marveled at the views from the train station. After a brief stop at the viewpoint building (Eigergletscher) for some history and photos, we hiked down to Kleine Scheidegg. After a quick snack in this charming village, we began our steep descent into Lauterbrunnen. We stayed at Hotel Oberland that night, surrounded by stunning waterfalls.
Day 5: Exploring Mürren
On July 15, we enjoyed a leisurely stroll through Lauterbrunnen, savoring breakfast and smoothies. As we climbed in elevation, we reached Mürren, a cliffside village that felt surreal. Staying at Hotel Jungfrau, we couldn’t help but marvel at the picturesque surroundings.
Day 6: A Day of Hiking in Kandersteg
On July 16, we did some day hiking and decided to skip the originally planned route. There was quite a bit of snow left on the pass that we would have had to take. Normally, we would have gone for it but we didn’t have spikes and Jack didn’t even have trekking poles… we figured it was best to bypass that section. We grabbed some snacks from “coop” the local grocery store and took the train from Murren all the way to our next village. We stayed at Seilers Vintage Hotel and Spa, where we relaxed after an adventurous day.
Day 7: Oeschinensee Lake
On July 17, we woke up early to hike up to the stunning Oeschinensee Lake. After taking the cable car, we spent the morning enjoying the view and had lunch at the lakeside restaurant. The beauty of this place was mesmerizing, and if we had more time, we would have rented canoes to explore the lake further. Later, we headed to Berghotel Schwarenbach, a historic inn opened in 1742.
More info on Berghotel Schwarenbach
“Opened in 1742, many famous poets, writers and artists stopped here in times past while making their traverse of the Bernese Oberland as part of the “Grand Tour””
Day 8: Journey to Leukerbad
Our final day on the trail, July 18, was just as beautiful as the others! We passed beautiful lakes and took a steep stair system down into the village of Leukerbad. It was like scaling the walls of a massive cliff. After finally making it into town we showered up, enjoyed a few hours in our hotel spa (we stayed at the Therme 51 Hotel Physic & Spa)👏 then went out to dinner and had the best Indian food we ever had! It had 5 stars and a lot of reviews plus it was within 5 minutes walking distance to our hotel. Best decision we could have made!
Day 9: Departure
On July 19, we rose early to catch the first bus out of town, heading to Geneva for our flight back to the States, filled with memories from the stunning Bernese Overland Trail.
Conclusion: Your Next Adventure Awaits
The Bernese Overland Trail is a spectacular alternative to the TMB, filled with rich history, breathtaking views, and unforgettable experiences. Whether you’re short on time or simply seeking an extraordinary hiking adventure, this trail should be at the top of your list. So pack your bags, grab your hiking boots, and let the mountains call you to explore the magic of the Swiss Alps!
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